About the Crested Gecko
Crested Geckos are a fairly recent addition to the pet trade, in the sense that until 1994 they were believed to be extinct. Despite this, they are pretty popular. This is probably due to the fact that they are fairly easy to maintain. For right now, I'm going to write a few basics about them, until I create my own caresheet.
Diet: Repashy Crested Gecko Diet. This is the easiest way to feed a crestie, with all of the nutrients they need to be healthy. Some people (myself included) choose to offer calcium dusted and gut loaded crickets or dubia roaches once a week, but the CGD is all that they really require. A lot of care guides in pet stores and a common myth states that baby food is an appropriate diet. THIS IS NOT TRUE. Baby food is not nutritionally complete, and adding calcium does not fix that. There are other ways of feeding cresties, but for the average owner the CGD is the easiest.
Housing: Adult cresteds appreciate a habitat that is taller rather than longer. There are a lot of different types of enclosure like
this vertical tanks with front open doors, conversion kits that turn regular aquariums into tall ones, plastic tubs, etc. For
younger cresties, many keepers will use a critter keeper as the smaller tank makes them feel more secure and enables them to
find their food easily. Whatever style habitat is chosen, it is really important to have lots of plants and things for them to
climb and hide. Subtrate, or the stuff that goes on the bottom of your habitat, is a hot issue. For me, paper towel works well. It
eliminates the possibility of impaction and is easy to clean. I do have one planted tank that has a special soil mixture, but this is
more tricky to maintain. Eco-earth, a soil made from coconut husks, is also used but is not recommended for the little guys, as
they can swallow it. This is also a risk with adults.
Lighting, Temperature & Humidity: Crested geckos require temperatures in the mid sixties to upper seventies. This generally
means that they do not require a heat source, unlike many reptiles. They also do not require UVB lighting, although there are
arguments that they may benefit from it. A good humidity cycle is important for cresties; too dry a habitat and they may become
dehydrated or have shedding problems, too wet and they can get skin infections and their tank may mold. Generally, a humid
cycle of 80-90% at night and drying out to 40-50% during the day is good. This is achieved by misting heavily at night and lightly
in the morning.
To be continued...
Diet: Repashy Crested Gecko Diet. This is the easiest way to feed a crestie, with all of the nutrients they need to be healthy. Some people (myself included) choose to offer calcium dusted and gut loaded crickets or dubia roaches once a week, but the CGD is all that they really require. A lot of care guides in pet stores and a common myth states that baby food is an appropriate diet. THIS IS NOT TRUE. Baby food is not nutritionally complete, and adding calcium does not fix that. There are other ways of feeding cresties, but for the average owner the CGD is the easiest.
Housing: Adult cresteds appreciate a habitat that is taller rather than longer. There are a lot of different types of enclosure like
this vertical tanks with front open doors, conversion kits that turn regular aquariums into tall ones, plastic tubs, etc. For
younger cresties, many keepers will use a critter keeper as the smaller tank makes them feel more secure and enables them to
find their food easily. Whatever style habitat is chosen, it is really important to have lots of plants and things for them to
climb and hide. Subtrate, or the stuff that goes on the bottom of your habitat, is a hot issue. For me, paper towel works well. It
eliminates the possibility of impaction and is easy to clean. I do have one planted tank that has a special soil mixture, but this is
more tricky to maintain. Eco-earth, a soil made from coconut husks, is also used but is not recommended for the little guys, as
they can swallow it. This is also a risk with adults.
Lighting, Temperature & Humidity: Crested geckos require temperatures in the mid sixties to upper seventies. This generally
means that they do not require a heat source, unlike many reptiles. They also do not require UVB lighting, although there are
arguments that they may benefit from it. A good humidity cycle is important for cresties; too dry a habitat and they may become
dehydrated or have shedding problems, too wet and they can get skin infections and their tank may mold. Generally, a humid
cycle of 80-90% at night and drying out to 40-50% during the day is good. This is achieved by misting heavily at night and lightly
in the morning.
To be continued...